Against a backdrop of giant inflatables covered in graffiti by artists from around the world — selected through an open call — Diesel reaffirmed its place on the contemporary fashion radar. But this was more than just a runway show; it was a bold creative statement, capturing the brand’s new era under the precise direction of Glenn Martens.
Since taking the helm at Diesel in 2020, Martens has led a daring and well-orchestrated repositioning that is already showing concrete results. The brand reported a 3.2% growth in 2024, fueled by its strong bond with Gen Z, which now makes up 35% of its customer base. The secret? A balance between heritage and innovation — both of which were on full display this season.
In this collection, denim — Diesel’s beating heart — was explored in endless ways. Classic tweed was reimagined in denim, while pieces coated in a glossy, almost liquid-like film hinted at a futuristic edge. But the true climax came at the finale: three trompe-l’oeil shirts crafted from a latex-like material, blurring the line between illusion and reality. A subtle reminder that, under Martens’ vision, nothing is ever quite what it seems.
The invitation itself — a spray paint can — had already set the tone for the show’s collaborative spirit. More than just a clever gesture, it was a direct call to action: Diesel doesn’t want passive spectators; it wants active participants. It’s a smart strategy that taps into the desires of a generation seeking authentic, meaningful connections with the brands they support.
And while Diesel reaps the rewards of this bold new direction, there’s a growing sense of anticipation in the air: Glenn Martens’ upcoming debut at Margiela. Part of the same fashion group as Diesel, the iconic maison will soon welcome Martens’ innovative eye, as he steps into the role once held by John Galliano — a transition brimming with promise.
Ultimately, Martens’ Diesel isn’t just about clothes. It’s about a carefully crafted narrative that resonates with the present moment and its audience. A bold step into the future — with denim as the cornerstone, but reinvention at its core.
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