Photos Disclosure Diesel
“There is beauty in waste, in what is worn out and destroyed. It's in the circularity of denim waste and in the wear we incorporated into the collection. This is Diesel's disruption: we are pushing both for circularity in our production and for the elevation of design,” says Glenn Martens, creative director of Diesel.
The immersive experience of the Spring/Summer 2025 show is created from 14,800 kg of denim scraps, highlighting the beauty of waste. Diesel’s future is circularity, a commitment to finding synergistic ways to reuse materials. For example, denim waste is repurposed to create denim rolls, used in the automotive and insulation sectors. After the show, the entire set will be reused and repurposed.
Elevating denim is what Diesel does every day. Micro denim shorts are embroidered with extra-long fringes, an impossible length to achieve with regular wear. A double-breasted leather jacket is treated to look like denim, worn with worn-out jeans featuring tufted seams at the front and embroidered fringes at the ankles. The same fringes finish a chambray denim slip dress, as well as appearing embroidered on the legs of the jeans.
It’s a collection about elevation. Cotton sweatshirts, mini dresses, and tank tops have collars that appear worn out: in fact, it's a devoré jacquard, where the cotton is burned down to the tulle underneath to create the worn effect. Meanwhile, the tailoring is made from double-weave jacquard: when the fabric is frayed, the remaining warp and weft threads appear on two different sides. It looks accidental, but everything is intentional.
Mesh tank tops and long-sleeved dresses are printed with traditional Prince of Wales check and are glued everywhere except on the chest, allowing the body to express itself underneath. The Prince of Wales check is also printed on PVC, then cut into bikinis, dresses, and tailored pieces, each with extra-long fringes that are integral to the design.
Experiments with denim continue: a handcrafted coat is made entirely from leftover denim yarn rolls, echoing the waste seen on the runway. Diesel’s super-relaxed jeans are reimagined using double-weave, then frayed to appear destroyed. The double-weave denim is overdyed to look camel-colored. Jeans look wrinkled, but are embossed. A long monk-style coat and oversized jeans are part of the Diesel Rehab Denim line, made from 100% recycled cotton, incorporating leftovers from Diesel’s own denim production.
Diesel prints are applied to pleated jersey and then cracked for unpredictable results on tank tops, shirts, and mini dresses. Double-weave knits hug the body, being frayed to appear worn. Tank tops and mini dresses are embossed with the print of an overload of necklaces.
Tencel denim made with Lyocell is sprayed to look like leather, then draped into sleeveless mini dresses. Jersey tailoring features strong shoulder lines but is super soft along the body.
Circularity in design brings Diesel’s archive bandana prints to life, reworked and reused in a series of draped and knotted dresses and tops. These prints were applied to pleated fabrics and then cracked, creating a trompe l’oeil effect of wrapping and draping. A handcrafted jacket and coat are constructed from tied and rolled waste threads, creating organic shapes, as if the floral base were alive.
The Play bag is printed with an image of Diesel’s bandana. The Play-Double-D bag makes its debut, a sculptural interpretation of the Play. The TRASH-D bag has its body covered with tied bandanas. In footwear, the D-Lake Platform with a transparent sole comes as a mule or a sock boot. Trompe l’oeil boots appear as denim or skin-tight leggings, fastened at the metallic D of a stiletto heel. Diesel’s eyewear collection is the first developed with new licensee Luxottica. Sunglasses are purposefully worn with rounded effects, while molded optical frames feature the triple D oval Trini-D-Y on the temples.
CREDITS:
Creative Director: Glenn Martens
Styling: Ursina Gysi
Original Soundtrack Composer: Senjan Jansen
Hair: Gary Gill
Makeup: Inge Grognard for @MACcosmetics
Skincare: The Ordinary
Set Design and Art Direction: Sayan Benbady
Original Soundtrack Composer: Senjan Jansen
Casting: Establishment NY
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