Eight years. That’s how long Kenzo took to present a dedicated women’s show — and the wait was worth every second. The Fall 2025 collection wasn’t just a return; it was a bold manifesto of irreverence, blending British tailoring, laid-back streetwear, and a punk energy that resonated from the clothes to the soundtrack.
Photos Courtesy Kenzo
Under the creative direction of Nigo and with Joshua A. Bullen leading the new womenswear studio, the brand embraced an unconventional, daring path. Bullen, formerly Givenchy’s design director for ready-to-wear, brought his signature rooted in the British music scene — drawing inspiration from David Bowie, Johnny Rotten, and The Damned — weaving a dialogue between the rebellious spirit of the Sex Pistols and the precision of Savile Row tailoring.
The result? A collection that flirts with chaos but maintains elegance. Oversized tuxedo jackets with shawl collars in black, ivory, and soft pink walked alongside low-slung harem pants, creating a modern tomboy silhouette — as if every look whispered, “I borrowed my boyfriend’s clothes, but made them my own,” as Bullen described. This duality extended into the sexier side of the collection, with delicate lingerie peeking from the waistbands of jeans and mohair shorts subtly revealing skin — effortless yet provocative.
But Kenzo didn’t stop there. The playful twist came in the form of rabbit coats — yes, complete with fluffy cotton tails — and bubblegum pink hoodies with floppy ears. Even the bunny slippers, reimagined in a slingback design, turned the show into a delightfully absurd spectacle, striking a balance between humor and high fashion.
The setting was another bold statement. At the brand’s Rue Vivienne headquarters, low-slung furniture and candy-laden tables evoked Andy Warhol’s Factory — a touch of artistic decadence that reinforced the feeling that we were witnessing more than just a runway show. It was a performance. A creative outburst.
Curiously, neither Nigo nor Bullen took a bow — a choice that felt almost symbolic. Because, as Bullen himself pointed out, this wasn’t about the clothes alone — it was about the raw energy that punk injects into every stitch, seam, and attitude.
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