Photos Getty Images
At Milan Fashion Week, Moschino unveiled a collection that signals a creative rebirth under Adrian Appiolaza's direction. Following Jeremy Scott’s departure, who for a decade shaped the brand with his exuberant camp aesthetic, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection brings forth a new approach. Now, Moschino's humor is more sophisticated, sharper – as if teasing the audience with a sly, knowing smile.
The collection, aptly named *Piece of Sheet*, is as clever in its wordplay as it is in its designs. Appiolaza toys with the concept of “sheet” – be it a bedsheet or a blank page – transforming something seemingly mundane into a symbol of relaxed sophistication. Dresses tied around the body, oversized shirts, and minimalist jackets define the collection, where white becomes the perfect canvas for visual irony.
This is Appiolaza’s second collection as creative director, and he has found his rhythm. His debut felt rushed, following the sudden passing of Davide Renne. But with Spring/Summer 2025, we see a clear vision for Moschino: a brand that continues to play, but with a more mature, nuanced tone. By revisiting Franco Moschino’s original wit, Adrian invokes a subtler, more intellectual irony, reminding us that fashion can be a space for thoughtful expression – even when wrapped in a bedsheet dress.
The runway flirted with the unexpected without ever falling into predictability. Trompe l’oeil prints – playful scribbles that turned garments into living sketches – were among the collection’s most captivating moments, a tribute to British artist Judy Blame, blurring the line between fashion and art. And, of course, polka dots made their triumphant return, now transcending fabric to appear as temporary tattoos on models, challenging the boundaries between where fashion ends and skin begins.
In accessories, Moschino remained true to its tradition of transforming the everyday, but with the sophistication of today. Teapot-shaped bags, pillow-like jackets, and even a provocative take on a bleach bottle – the irreverent *Q-boa by Moschino* – made their way down the runway. However, it was the pearl harnesses that truly encapsulated the collection’s spirit: classic elegance with a twist of bold provocation.
Standout moments included the hybrid pieces – a little black dress in the front paired with a tablecloth-inspired print in the back – and skirts worn with unzipped details, a daring trend that only Moschino could turn into a must-have. There’s a narrative woven into these looks, inviting the audience to see beyond the surface and view fashion as an ongoing conversation between what we wear and what we wish to express.
In just a few short months, Adrian Appiolaza has not only embraced Moschino’s legacy but redefined it for the modern era. Moschino’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection is a reminder that humor in fashion doesn’t need to shout – sometimes, all it takes is a subtle glance and a well-placed joke to make all the difference.
Comentários