WOMEN'S WINTER 25 BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
At Saint Laurent’s latest show during Paris Fashion Week, Anthony Vaccarello once again proved why the maison doesn’t follow trends — it creates them. Leaving behind the austere corp core of the previous season, the creative director unveiled a Fall/Winter collection defined by striking contrasts: strength and fluidity, restraint and boldness, tradition and modernity.
This season’s silhouette introduced structured leather coats — rigid, almost armor-like — layered over flowing evening gowns, crafting an unexpected balance between the sharpness of tailoring and the softness of voluminous skirts. Shoulder pads, a Vaccarello signature, appeared even more sculptural, drawing architectural lines that echoed the grandeur of the ’80s but with a refined, contemporary edge.
For those expecting a muted winter palette, Saint Laurent set the runway ablaze with a vibrant explosion of color. Saffron, eggplant, fuchsia, scarlet, and purple dominated the collection, rejecting any notion of seasonal gloom. Analogous combinations — pairing structured tops with bold, voluminous skirts in matching hues — created an arresting visual impact, designed to capture attention and spark desire.
Another standout element was the bold use of vinyl — a high-shine, translucent material that added a provocative twist to the collection. Whether in animal prints or subtly sheer floral patterns, it injected a sense of modern sensuality into the brand’s timeless elegance.
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