Saint Laurent Winter 2024 by Anthony Vaccarello: A Play of Revelation and Contrast
Photos Courtesy Saint Laurent
Saint Laurent, under the creative direction of Anthony Vaccarello, has always been synonymous with boldness and innovation. With the Winter 2024 collection, Vaccarello once again dives deep into the brand’s subversive history, reimagining Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy in new provocative ways. However, while the collection showcases moments of brilliance and powerful aesthetics, some elements fall short in terms of originality and freshness.
Fifty-six years ago, Yves Saint Laurent shocked the fashion world by introducing the iconic Le Smoking jacket, and in 1968, he went even further by presenting a transparent blouse underneath, exposing bare breasts—an absolute scandal at the time. This provocative moment shaped fashion history, redefining what women could or couldn’t wear and broke barriers in female style. In contrast, in the 2024 runway, Anthony Vaccarello revisits this idea, but in a world where the exposure of the body no longer holds the same shock value.
For this new collection, Vaccarello continues to explore long, slender silhouettes that have become characteristic of his vision for Saint Laurent. Yet, he infuses a touch of post-war bourgeois sophistication, with flowing neck scarves and turbans that evoke an almost ironic modesty. The repeated use of tight, transparent blouses and skirts, however, becomes the focal point of the collection, creating an intriguing visual interplay between body and garment. The draping techniques are flawless, providing interesting movement to the pieces, but the constant repetition of this formula dulls the novelty, especially after the tenth look.
However, the real magic lies in the moments where Vaccarello deviates from this predictable approach. An oversized cashmere coat, sculptural leather jackets with voluminous proportions, knit dresses with built-in garters, and synthetic fur coats truly capture the essence of power and sensuality. These are the looks that evoke strength—not just from revealing the body but from the tension between showing and concealing. It’s in these contrasts that the collection shines, bringing subtle sophistication that evokes desire without being so literal.
The collection’s imbalance perhaps lies in the overuse of sheer and tight pieces, which become predictable and lose impact as the show progresses. Even the translucent glass jewelry, while innovative, contributes to an overall sense of excess. Had there been more balance, playing with what is revealed and what remains hidden, the collection could have been far more captivating.
Art direction: Anthony Vaccarello
Director: Juergen Teller
Talents: Kate Moss, Penelope, Binx, Charlotte Rampling, Anja Rubik, Awar, Ajus
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